Neil Campbell

Neil Campbell

Neil returned to Edinburgh and took a job with Roy Brett at Ondine – one of Edinburgh’s most beloved seafood restaurants – before working at 21212 with Paul Kitching. Although both chefs opened his eyes to many things, he still felt ‘a little bit lost’ after leaving 21212. ‘I knew that Michelin-starred cuisine didn’t match up with the way I wanted to cook.’ he admits. ‘My food is the sort of thing I ate growing up in Scotland – a few ingredients showcased very well.’ Without a restaurant to call home and with his girlfriend moving to London, Neil found himself at a crossroads. ‘She told me later, if I hadn’t come down to London with her, she would have cut me off!’ he laughs. ‘I made a good choice.’

That last statement is true for more reasons than one. Not only did it preserve his relationship, it also brought Neil under the mentorship of Bruno Loubet – one of the UK’s most influential and revered chefs. ‘I went all over London doing trials,’ says Neil. ‘I was getting offered good positions, good money, but I didn’t feel heart and soul from anyone. I remember I did a trial with Bruno and had a chat with him – he actually offered me a position down from what I wanted, but he was so honest and passionate, I felt like I could believe in him. He explained that he was opening Grain Store in a year's time, and that if I proved myself before then, he would make me the sous chef there. So I took a position down, did a year with him at Bistro Loubet and then went to Grain Store.’

Neil would stay at Grain Store from the day it opened to the day it closed, starting as sous chef and finishing as head chef under Bruno. ‘His senses were incredible,’ he says of his old boss. ‘One day he came into the kitchen and he smelt burning pepper. We weren’t using pepper that day, no one had any pepper anywhere but he was adamant, so we all had to stop and look for the burning pepper. Sure enough, there it was in the back of an oven – a tiny bit of pepper left from brunch. Sometimes he would come into your section and make up a new special on the spot at 11.30pm – we saved everything at Grain Store, so he would go through waste and create these beautiful dishes from almost nothing! He was very inspiring.’

Neil’s years with Bruno at Grain Store finally gave him the culinary identity he’d been searching for his whole career. ‘I realised the beauty of simple, waste-free cooking,’ he says. ‘If you go back in history, cooking is eating and eating is cooking. It’s about survival, and that involves not wasting anything. It made me very humble.’ That humility and respect for food comes through in all aspects of Rovi too – food waste is either used in dishes or turned into ferments and pickles, with roughly half the menu being completely plant-based and the other featuring sustainably sourced meat, fish and seafood. Neil purposely works with smaller suppliers and farmers, helping to support and showcase their produce, and even sends his staff out to them so they can see what goes into the growing of produce before it turns up at the restaurant. ‘It’s about culture, treating our staff right and showing them that we can’t live in a throwaway world. It’s not just because of the money – it’s also a waste of time for us and the supplier.’

Dishes are hyper-seasonal and imaginative, with fermentation adding bags of complex flavours to what most would regard as relatively humdrum ingredients. The impressive charcoal grill plays a huge part too, imparting smoke and char to all manner of produce. The Ottolenghi influence is, of course, present throughout, but it’s Neil’s style of cooking that makes the dishes taste so good. Cooking vegetable-based dishes without the need for a big piece of meat or fish on the plate has grown massively in popularity in recent years, but few are doing it as well as Neil.