Homecoming: a journey to Maceió

The cuisine here mirrors that of Salvador in Bahia, which is just over 360 miles away and more widely known (it is the fourth largest Brazilian state). Its capital is Salvador, which is known for its cobblestone streets, sixteenth century architecture, Catholic churches, lively festivals and Bahian food markets, selling delicious traditional street food with seated squares for visitors to relax and savour the flavours at their best. Delicious acarajé, made from the pulp of black eyed beans, deep fried in the heavy aromatic red dende oil (palm oil from the fruit of the palm tree), then sliced and filled with vatapá (a paste made from bread, prawns, coconut milk and peanuts). Rich, sweet coconut custard cakes known as quindim served in dainty rice paper dishes as well as the cheese puff bread Pao de Queijo (originating from Minas Gerais in the south of the country, but a national favourite) are just a few of the delicacies on offer.

People in Maceió can sit on the beach and be served food and drink all day long without moving a muscle. Acarajé, coxinha (shredded chicken covered in dough and deep fried), boiled quail eggs, cashew nuts and prawns cooked in their shells are always available, and there are plenty of innovative street vendors recycling old tins into a makeshift portable barbecue, filled with hot coal to grill cheese on sticks (queijo quente), washed down with aqua de coco (coconut water) – utterly delicious!

The cuisine is heavily influenced by coconut milk, as well as spices such as paprika, ginger, cumin, coriander and malagueta (a small and hot aromatic pepper). It is reported that in the olden days, Bahians were known to use ginger and malagueta to season wine and beer! These staple ingredients are further enhanced with the bountiful local supply of exotic fruits, the availability of seafood both fresh and dried and an abundance of fresh and dried meat.

Maceió has the most amazing fish market, which as you would imagine operates in the very early hours of the morning, before the heat of the day kicks in. It is possible to buy a huge variety of fresh fish and shellfish at very reasonable prices, perfect for vatapá de peixe e camarão – one of the most popular dishes in the north east. Cassava root is also very popular and is often sold on its own, literally from a seller pushing a wheel barrow through the streets shouting ‘macaxeira!’ It is usually cooked in the same way as potatoes – parboiled and then deep fried.

One of my favourite dishes is moqueca, with its wonderfully spicy and rich coconut and lime sauce. There are many recipes but the fundamental ingredients tend to remain the same; it is a stew, usually made with fish, although chicken or vegetables can be substituted equally as well. In the early days a traditional moqueca would have been wrapped in banana leaves and roasted in embers.

I have very fond memories of being outdoors in a hot and sunny climate filled with amazing views when I was in Maceió. The air was filled with music and the hollering of busy street vendors, selling their amazing snacks with the most delicious aromas, making it impossible to walk past without buying something. I remember big family gatherings at the weekend, where people would head for the beach, listen to music, play beach ball, go snorkelling or surfing or have parties in the street. Neighbours would be pop into one another’s houses where the front doors were always open. I also remember the absolute eeriness of deserted streets and beaches on World Cup home games, where crowds would gather in houses or barracas (beach bars) dotted along the beachfront to watch the match, cheering and screaming at the television with every goal or near miss.