A journey to Chettinad with Alfred Prasad

These international influences left a distinct mark on the cuisine. Alfred Prasad continues: 'These experiences brought about an exotic exchange of spices, techniques and ideas that became major milestones in the Chettinad culinary evolution. The prosperous Chettiar families also entertained the British Raj extensively, which brought Western influence to their repertoire. The indigenous cooks learnt to cook British classics to please their guests, which added another facet to this eclectic cuisine. Their exposure to new ideas makes them naturally more creative with food, so their cuisine is continually evolving.'

The dry, arid environment of the region has also shaped the food of the Chettiar people and an array of sun-dried or salted ingredients feature in their dishes. Alfred Prasad told us: 'They work with very little and try to be imaginative with methods of preservation such as sun-drying and pickling. Fruits, vegetables, even meats are dried in the sun, and rice and lentils are made into crisps. Ingredients like garlic, onions, chillies and gooseberries are pickled. These techniques are for preservation, but also to make the available produce more exciting.'

Alfred Prasad says that it is an exception to see Chettiars go out to restaurants to enjoy local cuisine: 'It is very much an eat-at-home (or each other's homes) culture. They take great pride in traditional (and creative) home cooking.’ But it is this home cooking – for the everyday needs of family and friends, as well as for life events and celebrations – that is so special. Alfred Prasad adds: 'Weddings and other life events, which are celebrated over a few days, would be managed masterfully by the Aachis (Chettiars ladies) who would ensure incredible detail in the menu planning and food, even the decor. They would almost never repeat a dish during the set of festivities. These celebrations are a great time to experience the expansiveness of this gastronomy and culture.'

Chettinad cuisine is known as one of the spiciest wake-up in India. Alfred Prasad says: ‘The blend of flavours and textures makes it robust and heady, aromatic and exotic. But the spices are so well-balanced that while it is complex and spicy, it is not necessarily hot. As with most regional Indian cuisines, all perceptible flavour senses are tested.' Freshly ground masalas (the spice mixes that form the flavour base of most dishes) are a feature of Chettinad dishes. Alfred Prasad told us: 'It renewed my faith in the roasting/grinding technique. The Chettinad cuisine has a masala blend unique to almost every dish. It adds to the time of cooking, but roasting or frying the spices, then grinding them manually in large grinding stones, elevates the dish from good to great.' Aromatics such as shallots and garlic, as well as fennel, coriander and poppy seeds are common flavour enhancers, with spice coming from black peppercorns and dried red chilies, and tang from ingredients like tamarind.

Southern India is well-known for its vegetarian food and while many meat-free dishes can be found in Chettinad cuisine, meat is unusually prominent. Alfred Prasad continues: 'In most Indian micro cuisines, non-vegetarian dishes are limited to chicken, mutton, pork and seafood. The array of meats that Chettiars consume is very unique – they eat game such as partridge, pigeon, rabbit, pheasant and quail, as well as the usual fare.’

‘The variety in this cuisine is quite incredible – my advice is to try as many different things as possible. A Chettinad chicken or lamb curry, crab masala, prawns in black pepper, uppu kari (a unique lamb preparation), sundakkai vathal kozhambu (curry made with sun-dried berries, whole shallots and garlic), idimee (string hoppers scrambled with vegetables) and kulipaniyaram (a savoury snack). For the adventurous, try the goat blood poriyal – it looks like a beetroot stir fry!’

Alfred Prasad told us about one unforgettable meal he enjoyed during his time in Chettinad, put on by the elderly proprietor of a hotel he stayed in with his wife: 'Mrs Meiyappan was the pioneer behind The Bangala Hotel, possibly in her mid-eighties, running this incredible place with passion, perseverance and pride. Her unbridled hospitality and affection was truly heart-warming. The dinner I had with her on my last day in Chettinad would turn out to be one of the best ever meals of my life. I remember the non-stop array of delicious food that I couldn’t possibly do justice to in one sitting. There must have been at least twenty different dishes so it’s very hard to pick favourites, but a few I remember were kulipaniyaram, kola urundai, uppu kari, nandu (crab) masala and black rice pudding . . . There is an old adage in the region: ‘You have to be lucky to eat like a Chettiar.’ Needless to say, I left Chettinad feeling very, very lucky.’

Alfred Prasad’s enthusiasm for this isolated region, ‘off the beaten track even for Indians living in India’, is infectious. The urge to hop on a plane and journey across land to try its culinary delights – its legendary masalas and the unique sun-dried ingredients of the area – is overwhelming. He concludes: 'Chettinad is a complete feast for the senses, just waiting to be discovered. I hope this cuisine can be presented in a more refined setting, staying true to its intrinsic flavours and techniques, and get the recognition it truly deserves.'