I really, really like kebabs. From the dirty, late-night, probably ecoli-ridden, elephant leg doners of my teenage years to the more traditional authentic Turkish skewers and shishes I now indulge in whenever I get the chance, if there’s some spiced meat stuffed inside a flatbread I’m there. It’s something about the way all the elements come together in every mouthful – rich meat, tart pickles, crisp salad and a combination of hot and creamy sauces – that just makes them such a joy to eat. In my eyes, they beat sandwiches and burgers any day.
That’s why I was particularly excited to talk to Manu Canales of Maison Bab – a new two-storey restaurant in Covent Garden specialising in the Middle Eastern delicacy. I was interested to see his take on the dish, especially considering his background. Originally from rural Spain, he studied biology at university before moving to Ireland after the recession hit in 2008. A job as a kitchen porter followed, he caught the cooking bug and, after completing a course at culinary college, he managed to get a job as a commis chef at Le Gavroche. It was here that he met fellow chef Ed Brunet and his close friend Stephen Tozer, and the three of them started selling kebabs on the street food circuit. Quite a unique way to end up selling something often regarded as post-drinking fodder.
‘I’d spent a little time working on a few food markets with Ed, and he and Stephen asked if I wanted to come on board,’ says Manu. ‘I loved getting a good classical grounding at Le Gavroche, but once I had that I wanted to do something that I really enjoyed. Spices and Middle Eastern cooking has always been what I’ve been most attracted to, and ever since I visited Istanbul I’ve loved kebabs.’