Parmigiano Reggiano PDO

These experts make a range of tiny adjustments, throughout the day, each day, depending on the quality of the milk at that time. Using knowledge that cannot be studied, but must be learned incrementally, their expertise is handed down from one committed artisan to another over many years. The cheesemaker I visited, Damiano Delfante, was the fourth generation of Parmigiano Reggiano producers in his family. He works all day, every day, with no holidays. He lives with his milk and cheese, and has always lived the life of the dairy. Interestingly, it is becoming increasingly difficult to persuade the younger generation of Italians to take up this work, and workers from outside Europe now form the backbone of the Parmigiano Reggiano labour force. In Delfante’s small factory, his assistants – aspiring casari themselves – hailed from Senegal and India.

This long-established local knowledge is key to the unique properties of Parmigiano Reggiano, but just as important is the milk. Parmigiano Reggiano is made with unpasteurised milk, a method which requires more care and attention, but one which preserves the individual microbiological properties of the milk, all the way through to the moment you eat the cheese. The cheesemaker I visited told me this was the secret of the milk: ‘the ones who live inside’ and that everything he does is dedicated to nurturing these bacteria.

The feed Parmigiano Reggiano cows are given is strictly regulated, and they must be fed an all-natural diet of local grasses, herbs and other forage. At least 75% must be sourced from the region, with a minimum of 50% coming from the dairy farm itself – the farm I visited produced more than 80% of its own feed. This is sourced from natural meadows, pastureland and crop fields such as clover, ryegrass, oat, barley, wheat, maize, sorghum, millet and honeysuckle. Alfalfa (pictured) is a particularly important food as it suits the dry summers of the area.

The soil characteristics of this land, which covers the plains, hills and mountains between the River Po in the north and the River Reno to the south and east of Emilia-Romagna, strongly influences the flora and the fermentation characteristics that result. Local climatic conditions are also important, notably for the maturation stages of Parmigiano Reggiano production, which rely on certain enzyme processes that are linked to the region's weather. Biochemical research has repeatedly demonstrated significant differences between Parmigiano Reggiano and its many imitators. The skill of the local artisan is a strong factor, but so too is the region, its climate and the plants that the animals are fed.

The Parmigiano Reggiano consortium, the body which enforces these very particular processes, has operated for the past eighty years to ensure the exceptional quality of this cheese in a world of industrialised imitation. When a cheese is made, it is not yet Parmigiano Reggiano, it only aspires to be so. After twelve months of maturation, each wheel of cheese is checked individually by a battitore (drummer), who knocks all over the rind of the cheese with a small hammer, checking for defects. On average 2000–3000 cheeses are checked daily by each battitori team, with around 2–3% of the wheels not making the grade and becoming generic hard cheese. Another 7–8% will become second choice graded cheese.

These inferior cheeses can only be sold as 'Italian hard cheese', and any markings indicating they are Parmigiano Reggiano are removed. So each wheel can be identified and traced, unique alphanumeric codes made of natural casein are applied to each wheel during production. The loss or damage of one of these labels must be reported immediately to the consortium. When a whole box of these labels went missing in Damiano Delfante’s factory it meant a speedy trip to the police station. If a lost label that has not been reported is found on a fake cheese, the cheesemaker is legally responsible.

The historical significance of Parmigiano Reggiano to the local economy and culture cannot be underestimated. It is very hard to profit from the production of this cheese, with a sense of loyalty and commitment to the systems of making this cheese the primary motivating factor for those involved in the industry. The people of this region find unity in making and sharing their local products, and it is this feeling of belonging, of sharing a common culture, that makes the cheese what it is. The strict regulations which govern how this cheese is made are essential for maintaining the very highest quality standards, which set Parmigiano Reggiano apart from its competitors and ensures the continuation of this culinary and cultural treasure.