When we think of tapenade, it’s hard not to think of crusty baguettes, stubby beers in the sun and holidays in the French Riviera. Visit the south of France and you’ll find tapenade available practically everywhere, either from little tubs in mini markets, stuffed inside roast chicken, spread over the aforementioned crusty baguette or surrounded by fresh crudités.
This black olive paste is synonymous with Provençal cuisine. The name itself actually comes from the Provençal word for capers (tapenas), another crucial element of the simple spread. At its core, tapenade simply combines these two ingredients with some olive oil to make a paste, although you’ll often find other ingredients added – garlic is a common addition (we’re still in France remember), as are sun-dried tomatoes, tuna, anchovy, brandy and herbs like parsley and thyme.
Though tapenade is as Provençal as pastis and boules, it probably doesn’t originate on the French Riviera. We already know that olives were a vital staple in ancient times – the Romans and Greeks virtually lived off olives and olive oil and even before then the Phoenicians were busy planting olive groves in distant parts of the Adriatic. There are multiple accounts of olive pastes in Roman cookbooks dating back to the first century AD, often made with anchovies and vinegar. Even today, olive paste remains an extremely common snack in Greece and Italy – in Crete, the locals mix black kalamata olives with spices, herbs and thyme honey to make a similar spread.
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Tapenade: how and when to use it
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